Just some personal pics from the last year
Saturday, December 1, 2012
So here' my plan in the simplest of terms:
Take OG L24 as-is
Clean it up
Swap over OG carbed draw-thru turbo setup
Embrace the old school tech (soul) of the setup
Not much is new
Trying to prep the OG L24 for turbo duty
Removed all manifolds, cooling junk, and other bits
Broke a stud off in the head
Only managed to break 1
Better than I expected
Time to drill it out
Original Stud thread is M8 x 1.25
Gonna upsize to M10 x 1.5
Use an 11/32 Drill bit to set yourself up to tap M10 x1.5
Drill a pilot hole with a smaller bit
Take note of how far you needs to drill by inserting the bit into an open stud hole
Measure how far it goes in and be sure to not exceed that depth with the pilot bit
Once that's complete move on to the 11/32 bit
Understand I'm doing this all in my garage and I'm lazy
If you want this done right have a pro do it
With that said, I "eyeballed" the level and direction of the drill
Use a cutting fluid while drilling
WD40 or most any aerosol oil will work if you're in a pinch
I have no idea where my M10x1.5 tap is so I'll cover that later
Monday, November 5, 2012
Monday, October 29, 2012
Thursday, June 21, 2012
This may get confusing.
Tis the nature of the DCOE
So I had a lean pop at the transition between the idle jets and main jets
Anytime you'd power on the throttle, VS roll on the throttle, the carbs would backfire
After a bit of research I decided a change in the accelerator check valve was needed
The accelerator pump itself can be altered to tune the lean spot out...
...but a former Weber employee disapproved
You only need one check valve per carb
They are easy to take out, but the location makes them a pain to install
See item 12
Old accelerator pump check valves were 55s (.55mm bypass hole)
Changed to 35s (.35mm bypass hole)
Lean pop during transition pretty much disappears
Middle carb is still popping a little tiny bit
I think I know why
Much improved and good enough for now
So the Z runs pig rich at idle, 500rpm
Tried messing with the fuel pressure
Went from 60F9 to 55F9 on the idle jets
Messed with idle speed
What was the next logical step?
Even smaller idle jets
Package from Italia
Ohhh shiny idle jets
New Jets in the stack
So started it up and still runs pig rich
Switched back to 55F9s
I've realized due to my high duration cam the engine does not pull enough vacuum @ idle
Therefore the fuel has trouble atomizing and burning completely
Out the exhaust it goes
I'm not sure if there is anything I personally can do about it
I may have to take a trip back out to Rebello to see if they can get it sorted
On a side note with the smaller jets the lean pop was horrible on transition
maybe I will go to 0s (no bypass hole) on the accelerator pump check valve
This will basically not allow any fuel to be put back in the float bowl during the transitional period
That should eliminate the lean pop completely
If not I've got bigger problems
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Reference original post dated 12/20/11
Action: Clutch slips at high RPMs (above 5000)
Cause: Glazed clutch, leaking rear main seal, or slightly engaged pressure plate.
Fix: New clutch, replace seal, or find different length clutch collar
FIXED – New SPEC stage 2 clutch, clutch collar, and bearing
Action: Smokes like a chimney and getting worse.
Cause: Oily smoke so its gotta be the valve stem seals.
Fix: New seals, might as well port head while I’m at it.
FIXED – New engine
Action: Slight tire rubbing in rear
Cause: Tires are too badass
Fix. Rolled fenders but still no positive result. Get out cut off wheel/grinder.
FIXED – Inner fender ground down and hammered until tire cleared
Action: Passenger seat too far forward in interior compartment
Battery relocation to behind passenger seat
prevents rearward movement.
Fix: Get a smaller/shorter battery to allow rearward seat movement.
FIXED – New sealed/smaller battery – mounted horizontally
Action: Speedo don’t work
Cause: Speedo gear in trans installed incorrectly
Fix. Git R Done
Action: Car does not return to zero after left turns
Cause: Noticed recently that front wheels are different offsets.
Minimal enough offset not to notice, but large enough offset to adversely affect handling.
Fix: Get out matching spares and pair them up correctly.
Action: Shock tower covers look like shit
Cause: Product quality sucks & I suck
Fix: Professional install?
Action: Noisy fuel pump
Cause: No idea
Fix: Different brand pump
PARTIALLY FIXED – Insulated pump with rubber PVC repair sleeve as well as insulated rubber foam. Much better.
Thursday, June 7, 2012
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
I got plans for this seat.
Stupid Blogger auto-rotated image & I don't know how to fix
Subaru R180 27 spline to datsun 240z halfshaft adapters
2006 STI 3.54 R180 LSD
Change the input flange and it's a direct bolt in
as long as you have the Beta Motorsports half shaft adapters
Adapters & LSD mated up
Up close and personal
Seller claimed that LSD is 3.9
But I know for a fact 2006 STIs came with a 3.54 rear r180
The ratio of the center diff in the STI theoretically made the rear diff a 3.9
Without the center diff, the r180 is a 3.54
I currently have a 4.11 open r180 out of a L20 Fairlady Z 2+2
With the new engine, I'm in and out of the power band in no time
Im hoping this STI r180 with the lower ratio will keep me in the power longer
speed me up in the long run
Regardless the LSD will be a vast improvement